(Borough in the Mist by Sandeep Silas)
Bikaner, had been successful in evoking may images in the past in my mind; the temple where rats run like devotees, the grandeur of the Junagadh Fort Palace; Lalgarh palace splendor; Gajner palace and the serenity of its lake; the sharp shooter Karni Singh, erstwhile royal of Bikaner, and a somewhat blurred image of gold work on camel leather.
I enquired and set off to search for this Usta Kaam, name I learned later, and stopped by at some small dusty, clumsy shops, where creativity was at its best in humble surroundings. The flawlessness of the work stood out in sharp contrast to the scratches on multi-purpose work cum display tables.
Behind the counter stood a thin young man carrying the burden of legacy despite its odds. He was born in the community of Usta’s, who were originally from Multan, now in Pakistan, and had migrated to Mughal Court. The then Raja of Bikaner, Rai Singh invited them to Bikaner to work on the Junagadh Fort and Anup Mahal walls and ceilings. Naqqashi, is also known as gesso painting and what the craftsmen did to the Raja’s Fort and Palace is nothing short of being miraculous. Delicate floral and animal forms in resplendent gold have left the palace still looking like a decorated bride about to be wed.
Later on, the Usta’s shifted their work to be executed on camel leather as in declining kingdoms and later Independent India there were no royal courts to patronize their work and provide sustenance. The process though appearing simple is very painstaking. First the camel hide is softened and stretched and then placed on clay moulds. To remind you of the strength of camel hide, it was used to make saddles for horseback warriors and shields in war! The mould is removed after drying it for two days in the sun. Then the craftsman draws lines of the design he is going to make on the piece. The items can be in different shapes, like wine flasks, with long or short stem as the case might be; goblets; vases; perfume containers; water-bottles; jewellery boxes, lamp shades, picture-frames; wall hangings; and mirror-frames!
Akbara, is the technique of the design process, wherein a paste of powdered bricks, animal fat, jaggery and fenugreek seeds is embossed on the surface. The coloured portions are first painted and then outlined with fine black lines. Then the glamorous green and red colours are applied on the item and finally a coat of chandras, local varnish seals the fate of the beauty!
Kamladevi Chattopadhyay elaborates the process thus, “The portion to be ornamented is raised by repeatedly applying a special preparation of shell powder, mixed with glue and a kind of wood apple. Alternatively, sand from a ground earthen pot is mixed with glue and jaggery to create the required paste. The embossed surface is then painted upon. Usually a colour called paveri is applied first. Then a colour made from sindur and rogan is applied. Rogan is prepared by mixing chandras and linseed oil. Bat is applied to area where gold is to be patched.
Mohammad Haneef Usta distinguishes between different kinds of Naqqashi:
He further clarifies on motifs:
The most popular patterns are called Tarabandi; star-studded sky and, Naqqashi; floral and animal patterns!
Before the families practicing and nourishing this art are forced to abandon it for want of poor network and appreciation in international markets, the society or a start-up should think of ingenious ways to reach this rare art to markets and museums of the world! It is a gift of God!
Unable to curb my urge to possess one such piece I requested Javed, an artisan to make me a wall hanging with the profile of a famous Rajasthani princess in the centre portion…like she is sitting in a chhatri and waiting for her lover with longing in her mystic eyes!
Note: All photographs have been shot in the natural environment of an artist’s workshop !
Sandeep Silas ‘deep’
Kahin pe aah nikley, to kahin pe dam nikley
Mere armaan mere khwabon ke barabar nikley
(Somewhere the cry came out, somewhere my breath
My desires found the same fate as of my dreams)
Chah se kabhi kya etbaar aur wafa nikley
Khushi ke kareeb pahunchh dekha, puraney gham nikley
(Do faith and trust ever get a life just because you love?
What I found near my happiness, was nothing but old wounds)
Jo labrez they dil, ranai-e-mohabbat se
Wo bhi kuchh chatkey huey sheeshey nikley
(The heart that overflowed with the loveliness of love
Came out to be nothing, but pieces of shattered glass)
Tukdey-tukdey zameer main kab tak batorta
Kuey-yaar mein andherey tehkhaney nikley
(How long could I pick up, pieces of her conscience
In the lane of my beloved, I discovered dark alleys)
Saj ke pujta raha mere hathon wo lamha-ba-lamha
Mangney aaye zindagi, to wo bhi khamosh butt nikley
(The One whom I worshipped each moment as I adorned her
She too became a statue of silence, when I asked her for life)
Aye insaan pathar ke butt ki ibadat hi kar le
Shayad uss sey hi kuchh duaon ka jawab nikley
(O Man, worship the statue of stone instead
Perhaps, some answers to life, you might find in prayers)
Zaar na huey mere iradey, na thakey raastey
Mere yaar ke masoom kadam hi kamzor nikley
(Neither my determination is broken, nor my paths tired
The innocent steps of my beloved came out to be weak)
Ghuncha dahan mein chhuppi mohabbat khudgarz nikley
Kya hua iss jahan ko, koi sachha na nikley
(The love hidden in a bud like face, reveals itself so self-centered
What has happened to this world, none is found true anymore)
Haseen baaton se bhartey they jo zindagi
Fareb ki chadar oddey wo samajhdar nikley
(The one who filled my life with sweet nothings
Was found so worldly wise, underneath a veil of deceit)
‘Deep’ si mohabbat aaj koi kar le mujhsey
Aag mein jal kar hi, baati se roshni nikley
(May someone love me like a ‘deep’ today
The wick gives light, only as it burns in the fire)
(Jan 26, 2017; Kolkata; 8.10 am to 9.14 am)